Denim refresh: the updated jeans styles I’m wearing now
While there’s no single denim trend for women that’s dominant now, some washes and silhouettes definitely feel more modern. Here are some of the denim styles I’m ditching, keeping, adding, or skipping this season.
Modern denim styles for women
Once the garment of laborers and then rebellious youth, jeans have become a wardrobe staple almost worldwide. Here in the coastal regions of California, we wear our jeans almost year-round. In a casual poll of my California friends, 80% said they wear jeans 80-95% of the time. (For those of you who don’t wear jeans, I recently styled some cotton navy trousers HERE, and will have more options to show you soon.)
One of my style priorities is to look current and modern. So even my wardrobe basics get evaluated and updated periodically, and that includes my jeans. Here are the updates I’m making this season to keep my denim looking and feeling modern.
Setting aside…
I tend to hang onto my jeans for years, unless they are worn out or no longer fit. But to simplify my wardrobe (and manage space in my closet), I tend to only keep a few pairs in active rotation at any given time.
I mostly stopped wearing my skinny skinny jeans (the ones that fit almost like leggings) sometime around 2018. This year, I’m giving my slimmer “cigarette” styles a sabbatical. I think of a cigarette style as one that’s fitted through the leg, hits above the ankle, but not as tapered/snug at the hem as a true skinny.
Keeping in rotation: straight leg & boyfriend styles
A straight leg style is probably the most classic and timeless denim cut. These are not quite as fitted as a cigarette leg, but not baggy either. Lengths and rises vary, but you want the shape of the leg to be straight from knee to hem.
I find this a very versatile and easy to style silhouette, and one that can work with just about any footwear.
This one’s a very slim straight leg, with a nice high rise. It has a lot of stretch, so is very comfortable.
“Boyfriend” jeans have become my no-brainer style for everything from work-at-home days that may include a short errand or two, to smart casual wear. There’s often not much difference between boyfriend and straight leg jeans, so you don’t need to get too hung up on terminology. I think of a boyfriend jean as a bit slouchier and more relaxed in the upper leg, and they may have more distressing.
I sometimes wear mine cuffed. Boyfriend jeans can work with just about any top or sweater, and take a French tuck very well. They also work well to dial down the formality of an outfit, and for that reason I like to pair them with blazers and “lady” jackets.
Favorite straight leg & boyfriend styles:
rag & bone Dre | ag Mari | J.Crew vintage | Mother Dazzler
ag Ex-boyfriend | Frame le high straight | Liverpool boyfriend (Plus) | Chico’s
Demi-boot
Sometimes also called a “kick flare” this cropped, slightly bootcut style is great for letting your footwear take the spotlight. That slight flare also helps balance visual volume if you’re curvy or have broad shoulders.
Adding: wide leg styles
While there’s no single overriding denim trend, probably the biggest shift in years has been the move toward relaxed and wide leg jeans. It’s a major silhouette shift, and can be challenging to wrap your head around, especially if you’ve mostly been wearing a long-over-lean look for a while.
I like the look and concept (and the comfort of more relaxed styles), but fuller cuts can easily overwhelm a petite frame. I’ve been cautiously dipping a toe into this look. Last summer I purchased this style, which is a wider, fuller version of a straight leg jean.
Above, the hip-length jacket helps balance my proportions, and the slightly fitted sweater tee keeps the look neat rather than oversized. The loafers add structure and definition.
What I like about this “slim wide leg” style is that it’s more fitted through the hips and thighs, and then gently widens from there (not a flare). So it’s a neater look, and not overwhelming. With a more relaxed or wide leg jean, I’m finding a belt does a lot of heavy lifting to add structure and definition, and make the outfit look more finished.
I’m wearing the Classic (regular) size in this style, as they’re a bit cropped. There’s also a full-length style (30-1/2″ regular inseam) in two washes, Classic sizes 24-37, also in Petite and Tall.
I’ll be skipping these denim trends…
Full-length flares. I define flares as very wide bootcuts that flare out below the knee. Aside from the issue of hemming for specific heel heights, they just feel overly trendy and gimmicky to me.
“Puddle” jeans (and pants). These are styles with hems so long they puddle or bunch up at or over the foot. To me, they just look sloppy, and who wants hems dragging on the ground?
Other modern denim trends and directions…
I’ve been asked about raw hems, and whether they’re still current. I’m still seeing quite a wide selection of them among premium denim brands. So I think they’ll be around for at least a few seasons more. And I’m still seeing new styles with some distressing, though it doesn’t seem to be as prevalent as in recent seasons.
As far as washes go, a medium blue wash is still a solid bet, and IMO most versatile. Lighter and faded washes are popular now, and I’m seeing some grays and blacks. If you prefer really dark, unfaded washes, they’re out there, though not always as easy to find.
And of course, white and off-white jeans are a popular option and can be worn year-round.
Those of you who have been clamoring for longer hem lengths should be able to find more options this season. There is no one hem length that’s considered “correct” anymore, so go with what feels best for you. And yes, it’s still fine to cuff your jeans for a quick length adjustment (works best with straight leg & boyfriend styles).
What denim styles are you wearing most often these days? Will you be trying any new or different styles?
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I am also short with broad shoulders so I am skipping the wider styles. Have rediscovered The Gap and find they have a different washes with a focus on classic cuts and washes. The Gap jeans hold up well and are priced well.
Such great content and links! Thank you for doing all the hard work! Planning to clean out my denim this week as I am finding that I gravitate to these styles right now too!
Susan,
I need you help! I can’t wear jeans due to a medical issue, and it’s a real challenge! I’m only comfortable in Eileen Fisher washable crepe pants, and other knit pants by Sympli and Clara Sun Woo. I also have joggers in a sweater knit from Chicos and some of their Zenergy pants in the Neema fabric. Do you know of any pull on jeans that are made of a knit fabric, similar to those brands?
You might want to look at Coldwater Creek I have a pair of knit jeans from several years back. They are very soft. They have a pull on version here: https://www.coldwatercreek.com/misses/jeans/knit-denim-mid-rise-straight-leg-jeans/19910.html?cgid=misses-jeans&dwvar_19910_color=0376&dwvar_19910_config=M#start=6&cgid=misses-jeans
Thanks Kathie, for your suggestion. I’ll give them a try.
With my long legs and skinny hips, I am embracing the wide leg jeans. I found the perfect one but it was one inch too short on my right leg (I have uneven legs). The longer size was (and is) out of stock. Only in summer they will come up with a light blue version and I wanted the dark indigo one. So sad.
I have noticed a trend though. Everybody seems to be wearing jeans just a little above the sneaker. If I would like that, I could buy the one inch too short one. But I hate that look. It reminds me of my (poorer) youth when you had to keep on wearing trousers that had become just a little too short.
Greetje
I’ve moved to a cold climate and am so frustrated by cropped lengths! I want to wear socks, I want my ankles covered, and am not always up for playful statement socks. Even ankle boots, which I seldom wear, don’t cover the gap. I know you’re in a warm climate, but can you offer any looks or research for those of us in the chilly north? Thank you!
Hi Marion, you don’t mention whether you’re tall or not, but I’m seeing a lot more styles these days with a longer inseam. And for neutral socks, here are some good quality knee socks in neutral colors: https://bit.ly/3mfwcnn (I haven’t tried this particular style, but do have a few pairs in the shorter length and love them.)
Which jeans style works best with ballet flats?
I think any of these could work with ballet flats, depending on your style and preferences. I’d probably wear them mostly with straight leg and boyfriend styles.
As someone with large legs, I’m happy to see finally that skinnies or legging jeans aren’t the dominate style anymore.. I’ve had good luck with NYDJ relaxed style. Just a bit more room in the thigh. Susan, I like your idea of doing jeans in rotation It would give me more room ii my closet too.
I probably wear jeans 10-15% of the time and wear the straight leg style. I mostly wear them at our farm, but occasionally in the city for a run to the grocery store or lunch at a very casual place.
Mid-rise bootcut jeans are my choice, and I’m with Greetje and Marion on jeans length.
Hi, Susan. And thanks for the conversation on denim. I know most of your favorites are, for my money, higher priced names. Do you ever try the jeans at price points such as NYDJ, American Eagle, Wit & Wisdom? Do they hold up as well? Do they stretch out and not stretch back? Do you really think the extra premium for the names you mention is worth it?
Hi Karen, I did used to wear NYDJ a few years back, but for some reason stopped liking their fits. I haven’t tried them again recently, probably should. And I’ve tried a couple of pairs from Liverpool that I thought were pretty good (including the boyfriend style I linked to). J.Crew jeans are usually below $150, and they often include some styles in their markdowns. And I think Chico’s jeans (often under $100) are a good value for the money. Most jeans will stretch out to some degree. The higher the cotton percentage, the less they’ll stretch.
I’ve had good experiences with NYDJ and also with Gap (very good quality for the price and often on sale). My experience with Wit & Wisdom (a Nordstrom store brand) was not so good; they seemed to wear out quickly with the zipper breaking after a few washes. I’ve also purchased jeans from Boden (bodenus.com); they are very good and usually under $100.
I’ve been on a real jeans kick lately and wear them to work most days. I work in a university setting so it’s pretty casual in our office. However, I have been wearing them with nicely tailored blazers so that gives my casual style a more polished look. Can’t say as I will embrace the wider cut jeans…time will tell.
Thanks for the info. Always looking for decent jeans. I agree with those about the cropped length; it’s cold In Boston for several months of the year and I like wearing socks! But in the summer with sandals, they are great. I’m with you on the puddle pants. They look awful and dirty and a tripping hazard. Just why?
I have several different styles of jeans but won’t go to the flares that I see around. Been there done that although I suppose with a Johnny Was peasant shirt I could tolerate “back to the 60s” once in a while. I am not sad to see skinny clingy jeans move on because although they may look great on women with those long thin legs, they don’t do a lot of justice to the rest of us. I keep mine slim or slightly loose but crisp and I enjoy both zipper and pull on jeans. For a clean front and a great fit in all styles, JAG has been my go to for years; the price point is reasonable for good quality jeans…I have had some of mine for years. I keep dark to light washes.
I took wear JAG jeans! Love the fit and they do last many seasons!
Susan, are there any brands or styles that don’t make the tummy look bigger? Always an issue for me w/ jeans. I’m 5’1″/ 127# and carry weight on the tummy.
Thanks!
Hi Joan, you might want to try NYDJ and the Chico’s “So Slimming” styles.
Susan – I’m currently finishing up a vacation in Paris with my family and I took your suggestion for places to shop and found the most wonderful straight leg jeans at Comptoir de Cotonniers (Ava Straight). They are wonderful! But for a company states side, have you ever tried AYR? Designed and made in LA. They are premium + denim price but I think the quality is exceptional. AYR has many styles including a beautiful balloon style ecru jean. Interested to know your thoughts Thanks for the great post.
Wonderful! I always find something good at CdC! Funny you mention AYR…I’ve been meaning to stop by their store on Abbott Kinney. The last time I tried their jeans was a few years ago when most of their styles were skinny jeans, but now I’ll make a point to go back.
I like AGOLDE jeans – they are very nicely made, have big front pockets (hard to find among jeans made for women!!) and I can usually find styles in shorter lengths on their website (I am 5’3″).
It is interesting that in California you wear jeans so much of the time. I live in the Midwest. I thought when I retired I would wear them more. But I only have one pair and I rarely wear them. In winter I mostly wear leggings with sweatpants over them at home and my dress pants when I go out. As soon as it warms up I wear capri pants, lightweight trousers, and dresses. I’m leaving on a British Isle cruise in a couple of days, no jeans will make their way into my suitcase.
I’m tall and curvy and my most flattering cut is a mid-rise boot cut, full length. I honestly think that a lot of these cropped styles make my legs look short, which they are not. I do love the AG Ex-Boyfriend and the Rag & bone Dre. I’ve been wearing jeans 90% of the time since I was a child! I live in them. One more tip: I have a pair of Wit & Wisdom bootcuts that I wear to fly – the waist looks like a typical structured jean, but it’s all stretch. SO comfy for travel!
Love the post about jeans. I bought (on impulse) some jeans from Max Mara (in Rome, so I cannot return them) last month. I thought the boot cut looked fine at the time (balanced out my chunky thighs), but upon returning home (and after reading your column) think they look more like flares and are indeed a bit ‘of the moment’. I am wondering if a tailor could make the bottom half of the jean more straight leg and wonder if you have had jeans altered? Many thanks
I have not had any altered other than being hemmed, but I think a good tailor could definitely re-shape the leg for you.
I grabbed a pair of medium wash Soft Surroundings flares on clearance to pair with some peasant tops, and I have to say I really love them, even though they’re pull-on jeans, which is never my preference. Will I love them in a year or two? I really don’t really care! I think I paid < $30 for them, and they're quite nice quality even at full price. They're great over cowboy boots and help lengthen my short legs.
I so admire. your tenacity and attention to detail. I consider myself very fortunate if I find a pair of jeans that fit me and don’t look like they are already worn out.