Venezia!

I’m going to have some amazing pictures to share once I get my mitts on some real internet. It’s staggeringly beautiful here.

First impressions:

Venice is such a study in contradictions. The buildings are old, yet one sees graffiti everywhere. Men motor 25 foot skiffs loaded with engine parts, construction supplies, etc. through the tiny canals. A man in a suit on a razor scooter and his two kids on skateboards glide through a campo next to a church dating to sometime in the 1500’s.  The little streets are charming, but also secretive. Le monsieur put it brilliantly I thought, “a mixture of romantic and sinister.” There are centuries of flirtations and betrayals written in the stones.

We did a bit of exploratory walking in the area around our hotel, and yes, did get lost several times. Yesterday afternoon going from bright sunlight into a dark church I didn’t see a step and fell hard on my right knee on the stone floor. I’ll probably be limping for the rest of the trip. But I’m eager to get out and explore some more after breakfast.

We really haven’t done a lot of shopping on this trip, or at least I haven’t. Le monsieur picked up a couple of lightweight shirts in Florence to help him cope with the heat, and other than little souvenir-y gifts for folks back home, I just haven’t been inspired, plus our schedule has been so packed there really hasn’t been time for anything more than cursory browsing. We’ve been warned that most of the “local” glass and lace shown in the shops here is actually made in China. It’s all just as well, as the exchange rate is still abysmal, though has improved slightly in recent days.

One of my plans for today is a foray over to Harry’s Bar for a Spritz (pronounced “spreetz”). It’s a drink with either Prosecco or white wine and bitter Campari. Another contradiction: bitter yet somehow quite refreshing.
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18 Comments

  1. Hurrah, you’re going to Harry’s bar! I put my Venice pics up last Thursday and Friday, isn’t it just so magical? That was my first time back in 12 years, I won’t leave it so long. We stayed at The Cipriani – it was as if the Hotel Bel Air had been transported to Venice.
    Enjoy the prosecco!

  2. Hurrah, you’re going to Harry’s bar! I put my Venice pics up last Thursday and Friday, isn’t it just so magical? That was my first time back in 12 years, I won’t leave it so long. We stayed at The Cipriani – it was as if the Hotel Bel Air had been transported to Venice.
    Enjoy the prosecco!

  3. So sorry to hear about your knee hope it does improve each day though. Wonderful description of Venice – it’s a place I have always wanted to visit. And love the photographs about your Tuscan tour. Amazing scenery too.XX

  4. Good luck with the knee. I’m interested to hear your thoughts and impressions of Venice. My sister and I were there in the rain 35 years ago and didn’t like it much. I wonder how it is now, in the age of reason, without rain.

  5. Yikes to the knee; try to elevate/ice when you get back in the evenings!

    I am very much BURSTING with envy, pure and simple! I would love to go back to Venice. Please have an extra-amazing time for all of us who aren’t there.

    If you do want glass pieces, two ideas:

    * Giorgio Nason’s studio in Dorsoduro, (not sure if they would be your style, but he is quite charming and comes from a long line of glass artisans); I bought a piece from him as a momento and feel it is spectacular (though, yes, flashy and not at all “plus strict” ha ha ha

    * Go across the lagoon to Burano; many of the Murano craftspeople sell their own pieces for very reasonable prices (under $50)…wish I’d bought more than one thing!

    * Go to the Murano Glass Museum before/after Burano. You won’t be able to buy the dolphin chandeliers as big as a car, but go anyway!!

  6. So sorry about your knee, but it sounds as if it’s not slowing you down much — hope you get a chance to ice/elevate it to speed the healing.
    Venice sounds marvellous — and your enthusiasm makes it sound like your favourite of the Italian portion of your trip. We have friends who return every year or so, the same way we do with Paris, and more and more now — especially with your description, I want to get there. Romantic and sinister, what an evocative phrase. . .

  7. Sorry to hear about your knee…I hope that you are taking some time to put it up and rest in between sightseeing.

    If they have a chemist nearby perhaps they stock some arnica cream and Voltaren pain gel. I swear by these two gems.

    Looking forward to more travel thoughts and images as I have yet to get to Venice!

  8. Harry’s bar? Bellini!

    Hope your knee is getting better already. And don’t let the pick-pockets get near you!

  9. I could never drink spritz’s until I discovered that there are 2 kinds: campari and aperol. The aperol spritz is made w/ a sweeter, orange liqueur.

    Isn’t it so wonderful to stop in the afternoon and have a spritz or prosecco to revive your flagging energy?

    Sorry about your fall, but aesthetically, don’t you like the contrast between sunshine and shadow in Venice?

    I am getting so much vicarious pleasure from your trip.

    Marie

  10. Venice is on my to-do list, and, as always, your reports are charming and evocative. Be gentle with your knee, and I hope it will respond by healing quickly and thoroughly.

  11. In addition to ice and elevation for your knee, you might also try using your clarisonic with some body wash gel or liquid soap on the knee, with circular motions. Lotion would probably be best, but I am sure you don’t want to gunk up the brush head. The clarisonic is probably not strong enough to do much good, but it can’t hurt if you can spare the battery charge. Can’t wait to see your pictures.

  12. I read your blog everyday, but seldom comment. However, as I’m reading about your Italy trip, as interested as I am in what you’re seeing, I’m obsessing about the heat. I’m going to Italy for a wedding in Tuscany at the end of July and traveling from there. Worried that’ll the heat and crowds will be unbearable.
    Hope your knee gets better soon.

  13. That’s unfortunate about your knee; it’s such a bummer to be less than 100 percent when you’re away from home.

    I have always longed to see the decaying beauty of Venice. Someday ….

  14. I too hope your knee gets better very quickly! To add a temptation for shopping, in case you need one (though you’re right, with the exchange rate maybe you don’t need one): The sisters Marina e Susanna Sent make stunning, modern glass jewelry, as opposed to the old-fashioned style you see everywhere. Their factory and main showroom are on Murano, but they also have two little shops in San Marco and near the tip of Dorsoduro. http://www.marinaesusannasent.com

  15. Pseu, Sorry about your fall. Oh my goodness how I would love to tell you my story of how I stumbled down a step in a dark restaurant in Bruges Belgium (it wasn’t the wine!). What a weekend that was. Had surgery on the injured hip nine months later and still have a limp. However, nothing will keep me from my travels, lol. Loving every post from your stops!

  16. I’m so sorry about your poor knee, but good for you for not letting it stop you from enjoying your experience of beautiful Venice!! If you can find some Witch Hazel in a Farmacia and soak a face cloth in it and keep it on your knee when you are in your Hotel Room, it’ll take down the inflammation. (Vodka works too, in a pinch, plus you can swig it!) I cannot wait for your photos when you get home!