Amazing Spaces: The Witchery, Edinburgh

One of the many amazing views from Edinburgh Castle
It’s shaping up to be one of those weeks that makes me wish I were back on vacation. If my Fairy Godmother were to appear before me right this minute, there’s no question what my wish would be: two more hours in each day. And I want those hours first thing in the morning, before anyone else in the house is awake. That really isn’t too much to ask, is it?

I like my Fairy Godmothers on the witchy side. Source

In the interest of a mental mini-vacation, I thought I’d share a few more photos from our recent trip to the UK. We’ve stayed in some nice places on our travels over the years, but some of our lodgings on this trip may have truly spoiled us. Our hotel in Edinburgh was The Witchery. Named for the hundreds of women who were burned at the stake as witches at the nearby Edinburgh Castle during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, The Witchery occupies two sixteenth century buildings on either side of the street that leads to the Castle. One of the buildings named Boswell’s Court was residence to James Boswell, biographer of Dr. Samuel Johnson. There’s an aura of mystery and the supernatural about the place (especially at night), and staff swear that one of the suites (not ours) is haunted.

The suite we occupied was called the Guard Room, presumably for the many displayed guard uniforms throughout.

One of our “guards”

We hadn’t realized when we booked our stay that we’d be in a four-room suite! (Five, if you include the small kitchen.) One enters into a sitting room, where a fresh bottle of champagne and several bottles of Glenlivet mineral water, as well as a jar of home-made cookies welcomed us daily upon our return each afternoon.

Next down the hall is another sitting room or parlor, where each morning we enjoyed a superb continental breakfast, delivered in a huge basket.

(Apologies for the poor quality of the photos. The iPhone takes really wonderful photos outdoors and in well lit situations, but in low light, not so much.)

The bathroom had a marble floor, antique paneling, and a old style tub/shower that was not something one would want to navigate after a few “wee whisky’s.”

The bedroom featured a very comfortable canopy bed, fireplace, and plenty of room to move around.

There’s another “guard” in the corner…

And lovely rooftop views from the windows, too.

The restaurant, also called The Witchery is quite well known (and booked well in advance). We had dinner there one night and it was very, very good.

The location is ideal, especially for those who want to explore the city on foot. The Castle is just 100 yards away, and both Grassmarket and Princes Street are just a few minutes’ walk (though in opposite directions). The only downside to the entire stay was the lack of internet. But I guess that’s the tradeoff when you’re lodged in a 16th century building!

If you’re looking for a truly extraordinary hotel, consider The Witchery in Edinburgh. More (and better) photos of the rooms here.)

(Note, this is a totally unsolicited and un-compensated review.)

When you travel, what are your priorities in a hotel? Do you go for location, price, a unique experience, or all of those?
~

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17 Comments

  1. I love the Witchery and The Secret Garden, your rooms were magnificent! So different from the all too hackneyed boutique style that’s everywhere now. The Witchery is built on the site of the old Hellfire Club, where educated gentlemen would meet, get soused and talk bawdy of an evening.

  2. I love the Witchery and The Secret Garden, your rooms were magnificent! So different from the all too hackneyed boutique style that’s everywhere now. The Witchery is built on the site of the old Hellfire Club, where educated gentlemen would meet, get soused and talk bawdy of an evening.

  3. How fun! As a *BIG* Harry Potter fan, this is a place for me, I dare say, especially if your fairy godmother shows up! 🙂 I, too, am in the need of a “mini mental vacation,” and you have inspired me to escape – at least in photos – in my next post. Très bonne idée! Merci, “Une Femme…”

    Warmly,

    Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)

  4. Seconded the OHMYGOD! That is an amazing place. The walls alone! Thank you for the photos, so much fun to catch a glimpse.

  5. I love seeing your photos and going on trips with you…I truly hope your week improves. I am missing my vacation last week and wishing we could have stayed longer!

  6. OMG with giant capital letters! That looks like someplace the Queen would stay! How lovely, especially the part about having continental breakfast delivered (I like to eat breakfast in my pajamas). I’m happy with a hotel if it has a comfortable bed and is quiet at night. And has counter space in the bathroom.

  7. What a great post! I ate a The Witchery about 30 years ago. I, too, have the “I need another vacation” mind-set and I’m retired. I haven’t been to Scotland in 25 years and think that I would like to go “one more time”. As for hotels, I look for location and ambiance with consideration to price. The Witchery would be an experience worth the money, a
    North American chain hotel would not be worth it to me. I usually look for charming European 2-3 star hotels.

  8. Wanted stay at the Witchery the last time we were in Edinburgh, but with 10 and 12 year old’s with us, well, we thought better of it and instead opted for a beautiful flat on the Royal Mile. I generally look to renting a flat but if that isn’t possible I look for hotels that are well located and within my budget!

  9. I would love to stay in a hotel like that, but sadly I am married to a man, who is quite happy with the ilks of a Motel 6. I have to put on blinders (and earplugs) when I compare how some people vacation…. Luckily, he does not complain when I go without him, and more importantly he does have a few other good points. 🙂

  10. How wonderful! I need a vacation now but I will have to wait for a few weeks, then to Charleston with the extended family. I like the idea of ear plugs.

  11. Fabulous hotel! Just the type of place we look for. We stayed in the tower suite of a castle in Portugal that was pretty fabulous. In India we stayed in the Lake Palace Hotel in the middle of a lake in Udaipur, Rajasthan that was pretty amazing. We look for unique places and the Witchery certainly fits that bill.

  12. Back to say: nobody does getupy like Helena Bonham Carter!

    Really happy to have stayed in several hotels that, due to gentrification or being ‘redecorated’ by new owners (sometimes destroying old character) I now could not afford: The Gramercy Park in NYC, various old Miami art deco heaps in South Beach, L’Hotel in Paris.

    We look for gems, charming hotels that are especially well-priced, like Hotel des Grandes Ecoles in Paris.