Details, details…
I was all the way to the office yesterday before I noticed this jacket was missing a button.
May I rant for a moment? I’ve worn this J.Crew jacket maybe half a dozen times. I do not usually even button it. The buttons should not be falling off!! Otherwise it’s a decent, well-made jacket but poorly sewn buttons are a pet peeve of mine. Le monsieur can go out and purchase moderately priced clothing (along the lines of J.Crew, Banana Republic) and buttons are more securely sewn, facings are tacked down, the quality of the clothing is generally much higher for the price. I’ve really noticed a drop off in quality in recent years among some of my formerly favorite retailers. Items similar (and similarly priced) to those I purchased even just 3-4 years ago can’t compare. Fabrics are cheaper, construction is shoddier. I recently saw one Ann Taylor jacket online that was described as “bouclé.” I stopped by the store to look at it, and the fabric looked exactly like carpet padding! Scratchy, bulky and ugly. I have a 5-year-old Banana Republic basic black suiting jacket that I’ve been wanting to replace as it’s getting a bit worn in spots, but the fabric in the current versions feels far inferior. Sweaters and tops in dishrag-limp material abound. I stopped shopping at Talbot’s last year due to fabrics and construction that just don’t stand up to their older garments. J.Crew’s quality is often better than most, but can be inconsistent, as evidenced by my MIA button.
I’ve noticed that most of these retailers frequently offer special promotions discounting even new merchandise. I’d be willing to pay full price for some items if I felt the quality was commensurate. Heck, I’d be thrilled to get the quality of construction and materials that le monsieur enjoys from some of the same retailers! I’m willing to pay a little more for good quality, but so few brands offer a Petite line, and the idea of having to alter every piece I buy is daunting (especially when honest-to-Maude seamstresses/tailors are a dying breed these days).
[/rant]
However, the rest of this ensemble delivers, especially when I evaluate cost-per-wear. I’ve been very pleased with my Karina Dresses. They aren’t inexpensive, but for the price the quality is outstanding. The fabrics are substantial and don’t fade, pill or stretch out. The construction is fabulous: no loose threads, or seams or hems that come undone. They can be tossed in the washer then hung to dry and come out looking like new. You’d pay twice as much for Diane Von Furstenburg, and Karina dresses are made in the USA, in Brooklyn. (Remember to use code FEMM30 for $30 off full-priced styles.)
The Arche boots were purchased in Paris in 2009, and felt like a huge splurge at the time. I’ve worn them frequently since. Only now am I beginning to notice a bit of wear to the leather finish, which I’m hoping my cobbler will be able to restore.
The Eric Bompard scarf is another piece that seemed pricey at the time, but that I’ve now worn frequently for years. I wash it once a season with J.Crew Laundress Cashmere Wash and it just seems to get softer and more lovely over time.
Do you have go-to brands or retailers that deliver on quality and provide a good cost-per-wear? Do you have any quality pet peeves?
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I hate any kind of shoddy construction, which is why I sew, and why I cherish the commercially-made pieces I have that stand the test of time. I like shopping vintage for the same reason–if it’s made it this far, it’s likely a keeper.
Do check inside your jacket to see if there’s a spare button sewn in somewhere–fewer manufacturers include spares these days, but sometimes you can find them tucked into the weirdest places.
Well after reading Elizabeth Kline’s book “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion” I at least know why it’s happening! Like ParisGrrl being able to sew makes a difference.
Yes! I had (past tense emphasized) a cute velvet blazer by Armani Exchange (it’s the cheaper line, but it wasn’t cheap) that literally fell apart at the seams after a dozen wears. And a vintage 70’s velvet blazer that wore like iron. Frustrating, eh? I agree about Karina dresses – they never seem to wear and look fresh every time.
I also want to say how good that dress looks with a jacket. And I also remember when garments came with extra buttons. My father once called the Calvin Klein co–when CK himself was still there–and complained about buttons falling off a coat. They sent a complete set, with many apologies–wonder if JCrew would do that.
Even very expensive garments may not be made with good quality fabric. And construction is often shoddy. Since I shop at thrifts, I get to see how things have held up. Pretty scary!
As for new items: I now shop mostly at places that offer unconditional guarantees. So if the garment proves shoddy, I send it back. I think quality control is very expensive and companies now would rather refund after the fact than ensure that the quality is built in.
I couldn’t agree with you more! There are a few go to’s (I’m across the pond to you so the brands may not mean anything) but I still have to be picky due to inconsistencies in quality of the materials and construction. At the same time I have been pleasantly surprised with great finds at ‘low end’ retailers so it just depends what you are looking for. I have always found the mens’ department rich pickings for beautifully made sweaters and casual jackets (parkas) – the difference with the women’s versions is massive. Also I have to agree about the superior quality of certain vintage items and have been buying coats, jackets, dresses and even costume jewels for decades because of this.
They certainly don’t make them like they used to!
I’d love if you could share your go to’s from across the pond! Please?
You’ve struck a nerve with me this morning as buttons and also hems coming out of pants after little wear are my BIG pet peeves when it comes to clothing. I remember a 100% cotton camp shirt I bought at The Limited in the 1980s. I wore it every week andd washed it every week for years and never had a button even come loose let alone fall off. If things are this bad now, think how they will be in 5 years?
Speaking of good customer service…I had a blazer from Brooks Brothers, (purchased last year)and when I had it dry cleaned the cleaners chipped every mother of pearl button. I called BB’s customer service, and they sent me a new set, free of charge. They have also sent me buttons for sweaters. In this case, it wasn’t the quality of the garment or findings, but the fact that MOP buttons are fragile.
Fabulous post my friend! I’m currently looking at “discovering” new brands that offer quality – and yes they may be a little pricier but as you have pointed out the price wear – is where it matters – the more wear you are able to get the actual (expensive) price ends up being a better deal.
Wishing you a fabulous week-end..xo HHL
These days, I think you have to pay more to get more. I like Lafayette 148 and Worth (a line sold in homes). Both are pricey, but I have not had any issues with construction. AND, if I choose wisely when I buy, I wear the items from these companies for years. Occasionally I don’t choose wisely and the style of the piece does not continue to please me. I also think the quality of EF items is good, but sometimes the fabric pills. I have an EF black dress like your and wore it to a party last night and will probably wear it again tonight with different accessories.
Yep!
But at least, I see, you have some pieces that are punching above their weight (to repeat that expression you like 😉
I love my Karina dresses, which I learned about from you. Is the FEMM30 code appropriate to use every time, or is it meant as an introductory offer?–adelfa
adelfa – it’s my understanding the code is good on any purchase, not just the first. Give it a try. I’ll also double-check and let you know if that’s not the case.
I’ve finally given up on Eileen Fisher sweaters. Pricey and they don’t hold up past one or two wearings if they’re fine gauge, which are the ones I liked. Lafayette 148 is pretty good. No brand is foolproof these days sadly.
I agree about the fine gauge EF sweaters. I don’t buy them. Other items seem to hold up well.
I get the feeling that these companies are going towards the clothing is disposable model so why make high quality goods? You could always learn to sew. I make most of my clothing and the fabric is much higher quality, it fits me and my buttons don’t fall off. As for your husbands clothing being better quality, well fast fashion doesn’t really apply to menswear.
I sew too. Quality fabric may seem a splurge, but not when you compare what garments in the same fabrics cost in the store. Several small online vendors keep me supplied. My garments last way too long! I do sacrifice a bit in style variety, but love to “snoop shop” real stores and blogs to stay current….
Love those Karina dresses: real dresses for real women!
Kathleen
Agreed completely – I spent a stressful, exhausting day at our Macys, Talbots, J Jill, Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor mall two weeks back and resolved to just wear what I have, keep buying cashmere cardigans from Lands End, and perhaps learn to sew (or put the money into a few custom made pieces). Really, really disappointing quality abounds.
I just recently took a work trip to Duabi. I was all set with the photo of the Kohl’s Narisco Rodriguez colorblock dress that sold out online in half a day so I could have a tailor make one for me. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time do find one, but perhaps the next trip.
I did, however, notice that the fabric in the fabric souk seemed cheap, so I might not have wanted to do it anyhow.
I think I will have to resort to sewing my own clothes again, something I haven’t done since college. It shouldn’t take that long to make a basic dress WITH SLEEVES and it will fit and be done right. (You want to know about pet peeves? I need sleeves for my work clothes, people!)
I like Lands End for cashmere and Saint James when I can afford it or when I find one great piece at a consignment shop.
I don’t need many “nice” clothes these days, working from home as I do, but we do tend to dress more “carefully” in Spain than in the US, so when I go out, it’s in a skirt, dress or trousers — which I usually buy via mail from the States and have any needed alterations done here. I also sew, but until I can buy a nice sewing machine here, garments I make myself aren’t a regular part of my wardrobe. I don’t want to put in a lot of hours if I don’t have a machine that will finish the seams properly.
My go-to brands are Eddie Bauer (still very well made for the price, and guaranteed for ever), Lands End, and Boden. I read the online reviews thoroughly before deciding, though. And I just don’t have as many clothes as I used to.
To those who have suggested sewing, yes, that’s a great option IF one has the time and space. Regrettably, I have neither these days.
Have you thought about a dressmaker?
As a sewer people often ask me to make custom clothing and when they see my fees they never do it. Everyone wants quality but no one wants to pay for it.
I find it all so hit and miss when it comes to quality… Sometimes the most expensive things are poorly made and fall apart… and the cheaper ones are better… There is just no rhyme or reason anymore… Which is a shame…. Generally though, I find J.Crew excellent value and reasonable quality… I also think that Uniqlo is wonderful for the price… Have a happy weekend… xv
Yotally agree that quality is no longer a given, no matter what the price! I live in Canada now,(formerly from Philly) and I mainly shop in the states at Nordstroms, where they stand behind the merchandise they sell and do take things back. A few quality items mixed and matched are always better than a closet full of stuff that makes you angry and sad!
Also, I believe it is important to look for things made in North America as the issue of child labor and unsafe working conditions are something I do not want to support.Yes, it may cost more, but if you can show me something that doesn’t have to travel a long way and is made under reasonabloe conditions, I am more likely to purchase. The most recent refusal of a large purveyor of third world merchandise who refused to alter working conditions after a fire in a factory killed a large number of young women means I will no longer consider anything they have to sell.
This is my modern pet peeve: quality isn’t inherent to new. Cashmere- a few years ago I invested over 200 bucks on a 2 ply cashmere sweater from J.Crew. It piled up within months,not years, and was rather “thin” for the 2 ply I was used to from vintage cashmere sweaters. In the 80s as a college student I plunked down 200 dollars on 2 cashmere sweaters- both lasted nearly 20 years in my wardrobe- actually one would still be going strong if I hadn’t cut it up to make a rag doll.
I agree about Karina Dresses being a good long term investment! I was talking to a friend in grad school, and telling her that a Karina would be a great investment as “professional” wear- look fashiony without a trend and the dress would be around for years.
Hi,
If you are looking for a tailor,I recommend Mattucci Tailors in Redondo Beach.They’re excellent and have even done repairs to damaged vintage fur coats I’ve brought them,and all work for very fair prices.
Heidi L. in Hermosa
Yes, loose buttons (especially on things I’ve hardly worn) are also a huge pet peeve of mine. Hard to find well-made clothing these days, you really have to hunt for it. That jacket looks so cute over the dress and I love how you added the scarf. Very nice.
I’m with you on this! So frustrating! Men have it in spades when it comes to quality and craftmanship for the same dollars. Look at the shoes – so much better quality for the same price. Plus, how many men complain about sore heels, frayed lining around the ankle – the fashion industry is convinced that all women are interested in disposable fashion. As for buttons, I’ve lost buttons on the first day of wearing. That’s insane. On a more pleasant matter, I love your dots. Great dress!
I completely agree on the button-pet-peeve and on the shoddy construction. If you go to the Chicos site you will see many women complaining about the change in the material for the Travelers garments…comment after comment discusses the new cheap material that the customers hate. Unfortunately, our bad economy is forcing business decisions which may drive some customers away from the businesses. That was one reason I loved my visit to Soft Surroundings…the fabrics were fabulous!
I have also noticed a general decline in quality since the economic downturn pretty much across the boards. I have just resigned myself to quality being hit and miss, and shopping at stores with great return policies. It feels like I have returned almost everything I have bought this year, even at places like Nordstrom. Online reviews are also very helpful at weeding out bad items. I would gladly pay more for a guarantee of high quality, but even the pricier items seem to have poorly sewn buttons or develop holes after only a wash or two. So price just isn’t an indicator of quality like it once was.
I have also noticed a general decline in quality since the economic downturn pretty much across the boards. I have just resigned myself to quality being hit and miss, and shopping at stores with great return policies. It feels like I have returned almost everything I have bought this year, even at places like Nordstrom. Online reviews are also very helpful at weeding out bad items. I would gladly pay more for a guarantee of high quality, but even the pricier items seem to have poorly sewn buttons or develop holes after only a wash or two. So price just isn’t an indicator of quality like it once was.
I’m still reeling from my badly-dyed leather jacket experience!
I don’t purchase J. Crew any more for this very reason. I have merino sweaters from there that I purchased 15 years ago that still look new, ordered one a couple years ago with the same name and it was transparent, pilled, and just all-over cheap. I too have seen the decline in Ann Taylor (now a poly shirt is the same price as a silk was two years ago). However, I am finding that the lower-priced stores have stepped up their game and I find surprising quality at places like Target and am impressed that Lands’ End has maintained their quality but upped their style quotient.
I just returned J.Crew Collection schoolboy blazer in Italian cashmere – item 13583. The online description states “luxuriously soft cashmere” and names (as they frequently do) some Italian mill as the source of the fabric. This is the least soft or luxurious cashmere I have ever felt or seen. I have Loro Piana cashmere from Lafayette 148 New York, Brooks Brothers, Brioni and Fleurette from Nordstrom.
I have become v e r y suspicious of all well-known brands. In general, I don´t trust 100% in them.
I must really do some detective work/ see in person to be sure of anything these days.
However, there are small companies, where price and quality meet.
This is an especially nice look on you.
As for “quality” in fabrics, sewing, stitching, etc… What I once paid for a beautiful, well made, highly individual, tho’ not designer, dress is what I now pay for a poorly made, cheap fabric with lucky-if-the-buttons-are-intact &/or zipper works. That’s about $150.00. I have beautiful clothes made by Jones New York, Ann Taylor, Linda Allard for Ellen Tracy and the most recent are probably 5 years old. I think the outlets, Targets, etc have made designer/mfgrs realize they can cut corners big time and still move product. This is to no one’s benefit.
We have lived out of the metropolitan glare 15 years now. When I visit a city such as Boston, I take half a day to visit stores I once frequented, such as Lord & Taylor, Ann Taylor, Neiman’s, etc. Lord & Taylor, once a very elegant store (I shopped the D.C. metro location for years) is a mess. Neiman’s is still Neiman’s. Ann Taylor quality has dropped significantly. I live in an area of fashion outlets and one of my best friends is an intl consultant for outlets around the world. She told me years ago the days of real “seconds” were going away; the designers realized they could knock off themselves with cheaper fabrics and less intricate sewing. As such, the prices are low but the quality is suspect.
I still like Talbots even though I shop the outlet here. The quality is no longer what it was but it’s simple, tailored with many color choices.
Obviously a sore point with many of us! I was thinking about this recently, while doing a long-overdue closet purge. I was looking at some old dresses I used to wear to work, and also remembering some that I used to have. What I remembered was that I used to have a number of silk dresses, moderately priced, by labels like Liz Claiborne, Lauren Ralph Lauren, Talbots, etc. Can you imagine Liz Claiborne doing a silk dress nowadays? Even LRL dresses are all polyester. I also had a few blouses & dresses by Ellen Tracy and Dana Buchman, back when they were so beautifully made, with quality fabrics, and rather pricey for me. Now Dana Buchman makes cheap looking polyester stuff for Kohl’s.
—Jill Ann
I thought the fabric quality had to do with the trends now – more drapey and thin for T-shirt material. It is disappointing when the fabric is about a thin as paper towels. My mother also commented on this, calling the clothes in one major department store “sleazy.” I thought she meant the styles (they do have sort of flashy clothes), but she kept using the word to describe the fabric. So I looked it up, and yes, that is another meaning of the word sleazy – maybe the original meaning – flimsy, lacking firmness and texture, of inferior quality. A perfect way to describe that light fabric!
My pet peeve…plaids, florals and stripes that are NOT matched at the seams. Chalk it up to my mother teaching me decades ago, “if it’s not matched at the seams, it’s not worth the price, no matter how cheap”. Then she would click her tongue and mutter “tacky tacky”. (Having said that, check out Saint James from France. The stripes are perfectly matched EVERY time!!!) Also, what happened to lining a dress and blind hemming…again “tacky tacky”.
Oh, excellent point! I too learned to sew as a child, and used to make quite a lot of clothes. My best friend from junior high (and later college roommate) and I both sewed a lot, and were fanatic about matching the plaids. I am always horrified at clothes with unmatched plaids at the seams; it’s not that hard to do! But takes more fabric, so again it’s all about doing things on the cheap.
—Jill Ann
Interesting. I have noticed the same thing and I think it’s a marketing strategy. First a retailer starts out with clothing that is well-designed, well made, and with pretty nice materials. They develop a reputation, their brand becomes popular. At some point, they decide to increase profits by cutting back on the quality and hope no one will notice. For a while it works, but at some point, customers figure it out and quit buying. I have seen this happen with Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. For several years, I’ve bought a few things at J Crew, but I didn’t buy anything there this year. I think their quality is not what it was. I am more critical now and pay attention to these things. Over the past few years I’ve decided to buy less, but spend more. Partly joking, I told my husband I ask myself if the item is good enough to be in my closet!
I am so frustrated with most of the crap being sold these days, and I use that word deliberately. The styling is poor, the fabrication shoddy, and the imagination is lacking. I like Lafayette 148 but that is pretty expensive for me. I like Ann Mashburn, who has high quality but their online offerings are few. Garnet Hill has some good pieces, but some is fair to middling. Lands end quality is good but the styling is still rather bland. I used to buy Tibi and Pink Tartan, but finding it is rather hard. Just as the middle age issue of “appropriate” rears its head regularly, quality bucks us to the curb to add insult to injury.
Nothing more annoying that a button falling off and so soon after you had bought an item too. Oh and I love your Katrina dress – you look fantastic. S x
This is so pretty. I love the black polka dotted dress with the pink scarf.
Everything you said, for the last 15 years, and getting worse. But I sense a change coming. In another 20 years I think we will have smaller wardrobes, shop locally, and fashion will have slowed down. It has to, it can´t go on like this. And you know, good quality fabrics wear beautifully. I saw a photo by the Sartorialist a few years ago, featuring an Italian middle-aged man with a wool blazer that was very, very worn, but in a beautiful, elegant way. Very wabi-sabi. Nothing has made a bigger impact on my attitude to fabric than that photo.
All good points–the dominant resale shop chain In Scottsdale, AZ will no longer accept most of the brands you mention for consignment and this has been the case for several years. And I am relentless about returning merchandise, in hope that some of it “gets through” to the merchant. Case in point–a J. Crew quilted vest last year that I ordered online, loved when it arrived but it had a very cranky placket zipper. I just was not going to work that hard to get into a garment.
You look lovely – great dress and boots! I find Arche shoes very finely made as well. I too find the decline in quality just gross, and can’t believe the retail prices for such shoddy goods – a big part of the reason I very rarely shop new anymore. That said, I haven’t yet been let down by a Jones New York or Tahari garment. On the other hand, I so admire vintage garments’ construction – people knew what they were doing.
Clothing has gone down in quality. I am looking for a Mother of the Bride Gown or cocktail dress & have been to numerous high end dept. stores (i.e. Saks, Bloomingdales, Neiman Marcus & on and on) At some of them the gowns had pulls, loose beading in particular & was dragged on the floor by sales assistants to the fitting room. These gowns or dresses were not on sale & had basically just come in.
Last year I purchased a St. John’s black boucle evening jacket (the Caviar line) for my niece’s wedding. After one wearing the lovely single rhinestone button lost two of its stones. I had purchased the jacket on final sale at a Neiman Marcus Outlet. Love the jacket but the button had to be replaced right after only one wearing.
I notice I am doing more and more of either replacing buttons & other minor repairs on clothing. Chico’s has gone downhill. Particularly their travellers line. I worked for Chico’s about 13 years ago & was there when the travellers line first debuted, it was really well made & as the name said, it travelled & travelled well. Not anymore. Have tried to replace my very old travellers clothing with the newer version but it just doesn’t compare.Chico’s in general is overpriced for the quaity of their clothes.
I also worked for Banana Republic years ago & loved the quality of their stuff then. I still cherish the sweaters & jackets I held onto.
Sometimes I can get something well made at Banana, but it is getting increasingly harder.
This is such a pet peeve for me! I think it’s entirely due to the economic downturn and the pressure for publicly held companies to show a profit every quarter. Clothing quality started to rapidly decline in 2009/2010; since clothing is in production almost a year in advance, this corresponds to the beginning of the financial crisis in October 08. Quality is getting worse every year as inflation rises/ manufacturing costs go up, but there is still enormous pressure to show a profit.
Any high-quality clothing left (and the choices are rapidly depleting) is going to cost you. This past year, I’ve found good-quality things at consignment stores and a few European brands, such as Barbour, Brora, or Agnes B. Fluevog shoes are still beautifully made, if you like their style. Theory had a few classic, well-made things this season but even they seem to be moving almost all their formerly USA-made products (mostly blazers and pants) to China. I fear it’s the beginning of the end for Agnes B as well when I saw a cardigan in their store made in China, the first time I’ve seen that there. Comptoir des Cotonniers had some amazing pieces that I wish I had snapped up, but their quality and design declined sharply with this past spring’s collection.
I am done with J Crew and their horrible price-to-quality ratio. Banana Republic is similar slipshod quality, but their price point is much lower.
I’ll be scouring Ebay and consignment stores from now on, I think.
I totally agree with you I find the mid range brands are now downgrading their quality. That is one reason why this year I have had many of my older pieces remodelled. The fabric is so much better. Having chatted to the head designer at Wall-London good quality fabrics are getting more and more expensive due to the high demand from countries such as China. Maybe we need to rethinks our shopping strategies.
I have vintage pieces from the 40’s that have the original buttons, so it seems that quality has deteriorated. Sad but true.
I love the polka dots with your boots and pink scarf next to your face. The Karina dress is a perfect fit!
I couldn’t agree more! Unfortunately, I think we Americans are addicted to cheap prices AND quality. I’ve been reading Overdressed: the shockingly High Price of Cheap Fashion. It started when we exported the entire garment industry and it’s been a free fall every since. People aren’t willing to pay for quality and we’d rather have volume instead. I’ve been trying to wean myself, finding local and American-made companies, learning to make some things for myself, and finding people who can do custom work. Thanks for sharing the news about Karina! That’s a new brand for me and I was delighted to see that they are made in America! So glad to find your blog! http://dressedherdaysvintage.com
Buttons barely sewn on are real peeve of mine. It drives me crazy to wear a jacket, look down and see the button hanging on by a mere thread. Sometimes it seems that the only thing that will not come unsewn on a garment is the label! Oh, scratchy labels are another pet peeve.
I do love my NYJD jeans. They are made in the USA and well made.
Even with the missing button, this outfit made me smile. Smile with pleasure, not derisive laughter, BTW.
I saved and saved for a rather pricey pair of boots last year (from Vince Camuto.) The zippers were defective, and I spent half the cost of the boots at the cobblers having them repaired … it took several attempts before he decided to just replace the flipping zippers. I’m glad to report that VC gave me my choice of shoes from their online store to make up for the defect, but I’d rather of not had the trouble in the first place.
I concur with your rant. Harrumph.
I totally agree about the poor quality of most mid-range clothing. I actually think J. Crew is one of the worst. I will not buy another J. Crew sweater. I pretty much buy cheap (Target, Old Navy) and don’t expect much, or I buy investment pieces I expect to keep forever.
Susan, since you’re pressed for time, I suggest taking new purchases to a seamstress or tailor to have the buttons reinforced. If we lived closer I would volunteer to do it for you!