Under the (blazing) Tuscan sun…

Temperatures here in Florence have been hitting 89F/32C daily. It’s about 10F degrees warmer than we’d anticipated, even factoring in that so far this spring in Europe has been warmer than normal. So when I saw the small van that would be taking us on our tour of the Chianti Classico region, and the number of people who were in the group, I was worried that we’d be in for a very uncomfortable day.

The van was well air-conditioned however, and even loaded up with nine people was relatively cool. We drove south for about an hour before arriving at the first winery, Villa Cafaggio. After a brief tour of the winemaking facilities we sat down to taste four red wines, from a very young and spirited Chianti Classico to a more sedate and complex red blend called Cortaccio. We learned about the wine classifications in Italy, and that for a wine to earn the DOCG designation the grapes must be grown and the wine produced under very specific rules, which vary from region to region. DOCG wines aren’t necessarily better wines than others, but just considered the most traditional. Our guide explained that for a wine to be labeled Chianti Classico DOCG it must consist of at least 80% San Giovese grapes. Chianti Classico is usually a more fruity, acidic wine, lending itself well to pairing with traditional foods of the region.

This green glass contraption on top of the barrel of fermenting wine was actually invented by Leonardo da Vinci and has changed little over time.  It allows the gas created by fermentation to escape, while not allowing air back in.

We also tasted some olive oil, some jam made with the grapes grown at the vineyard, and some chocolate. By the time we finished tasting (and purchasing) it was time for lunch, which turned out to be quite special.

VEGETARIANS, LOOK AWAY NOW!! (as Faux Fuchsia would say)

This ain’t your mama’s meatloaf!
DARIO + is legendary among foodies. The restaurant serves a variety of meat dishes, family-style, including meatloaf, pork roast with rosemary and herbs, and an incredible steak tartare. 
Dario – Butcher and Entertainer
Downstairs is the butcher shop, which offers tastes of salami, and seasoned lardo to spread on bread. Yes, that last one is what it sounds like and is incredibly delicious.

We’ll be off soon to catch our train for Venice, and I still need to finish re-packing.  Second installment of our wine tour and more delights of Florence coming in the next installment.
~

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13 Comments

  1. Interesting to hear your impressions. My husband is Florentine so we go there pretty often to eat, drink & buy olive oil, wine , cheese & salami.
    Last time we went to a 200 yr old macelleria in Greve in Chianti. I am a vegetarian, but it was still quite a fascinating place.
    Our favorite restaurant is in Righanna.

    I remember when u could walk into the Uffizi at will.

    Janavi

  2. Even just reading about your day was wonderful — to be experiencing all that firsthand must have been spectacular. Obviously , you’re having no trouble uploading photos now — these are great! Looking forward to the next instalment.

  3. Hello:
    We are absolutely delighted that you are having such a wonderful time in Italy. It is indeed a marvellous country: beautiful scenery, attractive and interesting towns, delicious food and, of course, as you are experiencing, good wine!

    As hot here in Hungary, but it does make for perfect days. Venice, we are sure you will love, once off the beaten tourist track.

  4. I will never forget the sad butcher, who complained in an interview how the visitors from the US throw away the lardo because it is fat but speard peanut butter on their bread – which contains unhealthy processed oils. We sounded very upset. I am sure you made his day when you spread the lardo on your bread. 🙂

    The first photo of your today’s posting is SO typical Italian. The light, the air, the heat.
    32° end of May sounds like a typical day to me. Hope you find trees which provice some shade! Do you have time for extended lunch breaks? The time between 12 and 3pm, some places even 4pm is normally shut down: all stores are closed, people rest to return for the aperitivo at 5pm.

  5. Part of me is living through your trip… the wine! The lovely food! The sense that the pork comes from a normal happy animal, not factory farmed zombies. Sort of puts in harmony with the world, even if you are carnivore…. you get the impression that Italians love every part of food’s production…

  6. Thanks for sharing your trip…love visiting Florence with you and learning things like Da Vinci’s invention!!

  7. Oh Florence, how I love thee! Our visit there was in January, which I have decided is the perfect month to visit Italy. I’m so envious you still have Venice and Paris to savor before the trip ends! Thanks for the wonderful post Pseu!

  8. The photos are wonderful and I enjoyed the video. Dario seems like a very friendly fellow.