The Timeless Appeal of Red Lipstick
I’ve always been a lipstick girl. 💄 From the frosty pink I was first allowed to wear at 14, to the “My Lips But Better” colors of my corporate years, to the brighter shades I favor today, a swipe of lipstick helps me feel present and put-together. Today’s post is all about red lipstick: history, finding your best shade, and how to wear with confidence over 50.
I’ve always loved the look of a red lip, but with a few exceptions, it’s taken me a while to fully embrace it for myself. Finding the right red was key; keep reading for more tips.
Red lipstick: a brief history
While we may associate red lipstick with 20th century Hollywood glamour and fashion, in fact people have been applying red pigments to their lips for thousands of years.
From ancient times
- Queen Puabi of Mesopotamia (3500 B.C.) stained her lips using a concoction of lead and crushed red rocks, as a symbol of power. This caught on with the aristocrats of the time. Some Sumerians were found buried with cockle shell pots of red lip pigment.
- Queen Cleopatra used a carmine pigment made from cochineal bugs. 😝
- In ancient Greece, red lips were associated with sex workers, who were required by law to use red lip paint before appearing in public.
- During the Roman Empire, coloring one’s lips had become popular again. More intense shades were indicative of higher status. (Though this often required use of toxic materials like mercury…)
- In China, cinnabar was used to create red pigment for cosmetics during the Zhou, Tang, and Han dynasties.
- During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I (16th century), red lips were believed to ward off “malevolent spirits.” QE herself often appeared with reddened lips, thanks to a concoction of cocineal bugs (again), gum arabic, egg whites and fig milk. This led to a surge in popularity during her reign.
To modern times…
- In 1912, Elizabeth Arden created “Venetian Red” lip paste, which she handed out to Women’s Suffragists marching past her shop in New York. (She was a staunch supporter of voting rights for women.)
- The first swivel tube for lipstick was patented by James Bruce Mason Jr. in 1923.
- Red lipstick came into the mainstream during the 1920’s. But it was during World War II that it took on more political and cultural significance. It was rumored that Hitler hated red lipstick, so women in Allied countries adopted it as a statement against fascism.
- And the Marine Corps commissioned Elizabeth Arden to create a red (“Montezuma Red”) to match the red in women’s military uniforms. It was included in the official military kit issued to women service members along with matching nail polish and rouge.
Red lipstick had fallen out of favor by the time I was old enough to begin wearing cosmetics in the early 1970’s. It came back in the 1980’s (remember the Robert Palmer girls?) and I dabbled a bit, but it’s only been in recent years that I’ve felt confident enough to wear it on a regular basis.
Having my colors done, and learning which red shades were best for me was the real game changer. As a Spring, my best reds are bright and warm (orange-y even), and not too matte.
Finding your best red lipstick
To find the red lipstick that will look best on you, the first thing you’ll want to determine is whether you look best in cool (blue undertone) or warm (yellow undertone) shades. Having a Personal Color Analysis is the best way to determine this, but if that’s not do-able, try different shades at a makeup counter. Note which colors make you look drained or sallow vs. which make you look vibrant and refreshed. You can also swatch on the inside of your arm to better see undertones.
Some of my red lipstick top picks:
Jane Iredale ColorLuxe Lipstick: “Poppy” (warm) or “Candy Apple” (cool). I really like this formula, which stays on but is not drying.
Chanel Rouge Coco: “Coco” and “Arthur” (warm), “Dimitri” (cool). Both “Gabrielle” and “Carmen” look neutral but I haven’t yet swatched either of these. This formula is slightly more sheer but buildable, and very moisturizing.
By Brian: “Madame B” (warm tomato red, good for Springs)
“L’Opera” (cool red, good for Winters. This one looks darker in the tube than it goes on)
“Fall Crush” (warm spice red, this one looks GREAT on most Autumns!)
“Primaria” (cool cherry red, good for Summers)
Also shown: Juliet (hot coral, good for Springs), Lavish Oxide (coppery red, good for Autumns, also looks darker in tube than when applied), Royale (deep cool pink-red, good for Winters.)
How to wear red lipstick over 50
👉Tips: Red lipstick can be a bold and fun accessory, and a way to make simple or neutral outfits look more finished. I find a red lip works best when I keep the rest of the makeup very minimal and understated.
To smooth and plump lips and help your lipstick last longer, I highly recommend By Brian Re-Creation Lip Treatment. It moisturizes, improves texture, and eliminates flaking and peeling. Apply a small amount 15-20 minutes prior to your lipstick, on lips and just outside the lip line. (I also use as part of my morning & evening skincare routines.)
If you have issues with lipstick bleeding, try a lip liner that’s close to or just a little lighter than your lipstick color.
And if a full-on red lip feels too strong for you, try a more subtle application by using your finger to apply. Just tap on the product, then press color into your lips.
Do you wear red lipstick? What’s your favorite shade?
(Red lipstick history sources HERE and HERE.)
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Hi Susan,
I’m a warm red girl and here are my faves; 1. Sephora Lipstories #35 2. Sephora Rouge Lipstick in It Girl 3. Bobbi Brown ArtStick in Sunset Orange (yum) 4. YSL Rouge Pur #50 5. Laura Mercier in Rouge Ultime 6. Gorgio Armani Liquid Lip #400 . Love from NYC xog
I wish the BB ArtStick was still available. That Sunset Orange was one of my favorites!
I love red lipstick. Mine is from Sensai, 02 Sazanka Red. Expensive but it doesn’t creep into the folds around my mouth.
Greetje
Wow this was a fun read. I just put two of your recommended reds for Autumns in the cart and messaged Brian for some lip liner recommendations. I still have some of Brian’s lip re-creation which helps to soften my lip lines. I like your idea of dabbing on the lips for a ‘softer look’
I’m always searching for the best red lipstick. I need a red that is cool based but not too bright (unless it’s a sheer coverage). I’ve been experimenting to see what works. So far, Revlon’s Cherries in the Snow with a swipe of Clinique’s Black Cherry seems to strike the right balance of coolness, hue, brightness, and depth.
I agree. Love the combo for daily wear.
I love the history lesson, that’s great! Red lips are gorgeous. I don’t like wearing lipstick myself, but I love it on other people. Last year, I got my lips “blushed” which is tattooing. The artist did a wonderful job matching my natural (well, natural 20 years ago) lip color but they healed a bit cooler in color, so she touched them up with a more red undertone, and they are perfect. I don’t have to wear lipstick at all, and my lips have a natural light red hue that won’t need a touch up for 3-5 years.
Showing the different color tones really helps me. Thank you. Would you consider looking at F&E to tell me what colors strike you as being best for the spring pallet. I would so appreciate that.
Susan, thank you for this. I am hopeless at picking out lipstick hues for myself.
The historical context was fascinating, especially because I just finished reading a biography of Christian Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior. She was part of the French resistance, and was captured by the Gestapo and sent to a concentration camp.)
It does seem like red lipstick is everywhere in photos from WWII. Now I know why!
Hi Susan! What a fun post today–thank you! I love red lipstick and have pretty much worn it my whole life (I started young, as a little ballerina at age 4, and my love of red lipstick has never waned!). I was lucky enough to learn about undertones in skin in my early 20’s so picking out blue-toned reds was always much easier (I am a high contrast Summer). I must have 10 tubes of red lipstick on my vanity, and I love them all, everything from Chanel to Cover Girl. I have been curious about trying some of Brian’s lipsticks but wasn’t sure about which would suit me. Thanks VERY much for the color recommendations for his line! Cheers!
I loved reading the history of red lipstick! So far I haven’t been comfortable wearing any bold lipstick color, but it looks great on you.
Please consider doing a similar lipstick color post with drugstore brand lipstick. I realize this post was promoting Brian brand, but would appreciate options. Thanks!
I’d love to do that, but unfortunately most drugstore brands don’t offer testers. I am going to check our e.l.f. soon though!
e.l.f. lip oil in Fiery Red is lovey for when you want a hint of color. I apply 2 light coats, waiting about 10 seconds between. A soft, muted red. Your lips but better.
Susan,
Was in Evereve and saw the chartreuse cardigan. Brand in the neckline says Splendid. Is this chartreuse too bright for a true Autumn ?…. Or is it an Autumn color at all ?
Hi Nancy, I just looked that one up. On my monitor it looks a bit more yellow than green, but might work for an Autumn, especially Vivid (Bright) Autumn.
I asked Rachel of red leopard fame about a red lipstick she was wearing. Turns out it was the same poppy you’re wearing. She used a cooler lip liner and mentioned she needed a color not too warm, not too cool. Well, I’m a Goldilocks lipstick gal…not too warm, not too cool but just right!
I tried her combination but it was a bit off until I added a pinkish color on top. I feel like I need an advanced degree in alchemy to get it right.
Btw, tried Chanel Arthur, coco both too warm…looked brownish on me. Chanel Dimitri a bit better but was too dark.
How do you get a not too warm, not too cool color? Is there such a thing as a truly neutral red lipstick?
I’m leaning toward Brian’s primaria but would welcome any comments, tips, advice!!!
(Sorry to blather on!)
As I am a Winter, I wear a lot of bold color on my person, but I haven’t been able to comfortably wear red lipstick, despite purchasing a few following other mentions in your blog — frustrating, but not yet in my comfort zone.
Wish I had the confidence to wear it. . I use Estée Lauder Persuasive when I wear it. I think it’s the right shade for me as an Autumn, but after I apply, I wipe most of it off and put clear over top for a hint of color. I love a bold lip on others but think it looks garish on me.
I love a red lip but can’t go too bright, because my complexion is very muted. Current red is: MAC regal red. I used to love Bare Minerals “intuition”, but (of course), they d/c’ed the line of lipsticks. Drat!
I use Estée Lauder Persuasive from Ulta.. I think it’s the right undertone as an Autumn?. But I just dab it on for a hint of color. Wish I had the confidence to wear it boldly, i love the look on others but when I try it, it seems garish
Thanks for the history of the red lip, I love it even more now! That Poppy is gorgeous, so uplifting. I’m always on the search for the “perfect red lip”, so I might need to try that one. Thanks, Susan! xx
I think we all need to wear red lipstick again!
Wonderful post! When do you and Brian plan to do your next collaboration? Reading the post has made me want to have a color analysis done!
I love all of them! Been a fan of red lipstick since high school. I really love the reds from Besame Cosmetics. They are a vintage reproduction woman-owned brand based out of Burbank. The have cute packaging and each color is inspired or a repro of a particular year.
I love red lipstick but don’t always reach for it. That changes now! It will be my go to color from now on!
Totally off topic…..the Betty Cardigan from Sezanne in nutmeg is close to what color in the autumn palette? Would it work for a bright autumn leaf? Thank you!!!!
Hi Lila, I’m not seeing a color listed as “Nutmeg.” If the color you’re referring to is “Hazelnut,” that’s a warm brown that works for both Springs and Autumns. And the new-ish “Terracotta” color looks pretty close to “Chestnut” in the Autumn palette.
Thank you, Susan! You are correct, the color is hazelnut. I just ordered it! I’m heading to Europe in early May and think it will come in handy. Thank you very much.
Hi Susan
I couldn’t agree with you more. I love a red lip. My go to is the Chanel Le Rouge Ultra Tenue in bright raspberry. It stays on and isn’t drying. I will check out some of your suggestions Susan!
Thank you for the history of red lipstick. It was very interesting. My favorite red is red velvet by Besame Cosmetics.
I used to wear MAC Ruby Woo but it’s too matte/dry for me now so I’ve switched to Gucci Goldie in satin finish. I don’t wear lipstick very often now that I’m retired from paid work but when I go out at night Goldie is perfect, so maybe I should throw it on for an afternoon outing or two just to shake things up!
I am intrigued and pleased that women wore red lipstick to symbolize the fight against facism. Going online to shop for a red for myself, now! Thanks for the color help. I am no where near anyone who does color analysis, so will have to wing it and see if I can get something that works! Thanks so much for the helpful tips. You look lovely in the red you chose!
Well I waited a few days to get up the courage but you’ve emboldened me. I ordered Brian’s Fall Crush. I’m a red lipstick virgin so here’s hoping. 🙂