Paris State of Mind
We leave two weeks from tomorrow, and planning proceeds apace. We’ll arrive on Sunday morning, and leave the following Sunday morning. Seven whole days in Paris!!!
Tuesday we’re taking an early TVG train to Reims, where we have appointments to tour les caves and do some tasting (bien sur!) at Ruinart and Veuve Cliquot cellars. We also hope to see the Cathedral and the Marc Chagall stained glass windows. It will be a full day, with a late train back to town.
The rest of the days of our visit (Lundi, Mercredi, Jeudi,Vendredi, Samedi) are uncommitted at this juncture, except that we’ve purchased a “choice” one-day ticket for the Salon du Chocolat (we can visit any one of three days). We still have many Paris sights and activities on our list, including Saint Chapelle, a boat ride along Canal St. Martin, catching an Anne Paceo performance, a visit to the Dutch Masters exhibit at the Jacquemart-André, a shopping visit to Monica, and many others I’m forgetting at the moment.
If you will be in Paris on any of these days and would like to meet up for lunch, coffee, drinks, shopping (or any combination of the above) please e-mail me soon so we can arrange.
I’ll post my packing list once we’re closer to our departure date and I’ve a better idea of the weather.
~
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IWon’t be there this time of year, as I often am, due to a monster project, so YOU will have to have fun for me! Sounds like a varied, delight-filled and romantic slate so far! Anticipating and planning is one of the best parts of a trip!
What did you decide to do, hotel or apt?
Duchesse – we’re going to stay in an apartment this time. We ran the numbers and compared to the hotels DH was looking at, this came in at about half the cost (once breakfast is factored in). Our apartment is just a block or so from the Pompidou, so we’re very centrally located. We snagged one with an elevator too.
It sounds wonderful—and you deserve every moment of it, after your challenging year—I will be there in spirit, cheering when you raise your first (and last) glass of Veuve Cliquot. Salut!
If I recall, you have a rental apartement near Beaubourg (western edge of le Marais)?
See that apartment it is – oh that is so much more pleasant than a hotel. Being ABLE to eat in can be a great freedom and relief.
I hesitate to suggest anything else to do or see, as a week is so short, especially if you are taking time for a visit to Reims (I visited the Cathedral, but not the champagne caves – I’m not a big champagne enthusiast).
Assume you have good walking shoes that are also attractive and urbane. You are a seasoned enough traveller to know that the best part of Paris is simply walking and discovering places.
You have everything an easy walk’s distance from the square around Beaubourg (Centre Pompidou) with its lively street life and buskers – yes, of course watch out for pickpockets there as in any crowded urban place – great postcards to take or write home in the area – to the magnificent Place des Vosges, en passant par the Gay Village area, the old Jewish quarter around rue des Rosiers (bookshops and great falafels), and many elegant hôtels particuliers from the Renaissance to the Classic period.
One can do worse on a rainy day than enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine or even a meal under the galeries surrounding Place des Vosges.
Museums: le musée Carnavalet, histoire de Paris. The buildings themselves are worth a visit, and you can visit the courtyards without paying for a visit if you don’t feel like seeing yet another museum. Good bookshop too.
LIBRAIRIE DU MUSÉE
Le musée Carnavalet retraçant l’histoire de Paris, la librairie propose une sélection d’ouvrages sur la capitale et son histoire.
Un large choix de près de 1500 titres, du simple guide à l’ouvrage de référence en passant par le livre d’art, au roman et à des livres pour la jeunesse, est ainsi proposé aux amoureux de Paris.
La partie boutique présente des objets inspirés des collections du musée Carnavalet, comme le coquetier balsamaire gallo-romain, le service abeille de Napoléon Ier et le service de porcelaine Tivoli d’après une gravure conservée au cabinet des estampes du musée.
Conçue par Jean Oddes et réalisée par Oddes and Co (Colombe Stevens et Vittorio Pisu), cet espace à la hauteur monumentale est une rencontre improbable entre des colonnes XIXe et une architecture industrielle XXe siècle.
Librairie du Musée Carnavalet
23, rue de Sévigné
75004 Paris
Tél. : 01 42 74 08 00
Fax : 01 44 78 04 71
Horaires : 10 h – 18 h, du mardi au dimanche
The Jewish Art and History Museum is also well worth a visit: http://www.mahj.org/
(also has a good bookshop – boutique)
I am also extremely fond of the Arab World Institute (Institut du monde arabe) just across the Seine: http://www.imarabe.org You can walk across Ile St-Louis or other bridges to get there. Not onl for the exhibits and the spectacular modern architecture by Jean Nouvel, but also the magnificent view over Notre-Dame and central-eastern Paris from the rooftop terrasse. The view is free – no need to pay museum admission – but you might enjoy a refreshment at the restaurant – salon de thé at rooftop level (though while the restaurant is decent, it is not the best Middle Eastern or North African restaurant in Paris). Once again, a good bookshop-boutique (lovely posters of calligraphy).
As for the weather, so far the early autumn has been cool there, but the main characteristic of Paris weather is how changeable it is (as in “Le ciel de Paris”).
I’m more likely to be in Paris in the autumn than any other time of year, but so far not attending anything there before the end of winter or so.
Will have more to say, of course!
Is Miss Pseu really going to France? Because it sounds like she’s going to heaven!
So jealous. And the St. Chapelle is my most favorite place in the constructed world.
I’m happy with anticipation for you, and maybe a teensy bit green. . . we’ve never been to Paris in the fall, and that trip is on my post-retirement list.
You’ve already got a good idea of what you want to see — we’ve liked best the trips we’ve made since the “should-sees” were ticked off the list. Those serendipitous finds. Permission just to linger over coffee and people-watch for hours.
Last visit we really enjoyed the Jardin des Plantes, and if you’re over in that neck of the woods, you could pop into the huge library — people complain about its design but it’s so spectacular that I think it’s worth seeing. And I love Jean Nouvel’s Musé Branly. Also think that the shop, Merci, worth a look. And those falafels ’round the corner from the Carnavelet are well worth lining up for.
Ah, now you’ve really got me wanting to book a flight . . .
How fun! I look forward to hearing all about it.
Leggings, definitely, as there can be legging and bare limb weather the same day.
You shouldn’t have to queue for very long at the rue des Rosiers falafel shops in the autumn, especially if you can have lunch a bit early or late.
How wonderful! Enjoy the trip. I’ve only been once to Paris; next time I go I want to stay at least one month.
Is this photo from Luxembourg Gardens?
cg
Pardonez-moi while I abuse the French language, but I am POIS VERT with envy! Looking forward to your reports from Paris.
I missed Paris on my last trip…except for CDG…so I envy you. The fall is such a lovely time of year.
And to see the Dutch Masters…heaven indeed.
I am getting so excited for you! And I know you’ll take tons of pictures and tell us the in’s and out’s of your experience.
This time before the trip, the planning and packing, is so much fun. Waiting to read what you´ll take along. Now is the time to try those leggings 😉
Katriona – thank you! I have to admit, I’m looking forward to enjoying some good champagne.
lagatta – yes, we’re just east of the Pompidou. Thanks for all of your great tips and suggestions. We did visit the Carnavalet on our last trip and enjoyed it very much. Last year temperatures over a four day period varied from the mid 70’s F to the high 50’s. Changeable indeed!
Marsi – and I am looking forward to posting from Paris!
Miss Janey – France, heaven, c’est la meme chose pour moi!
Sher – you bet! I’ve got a fresh memory card ready to go.
LPC – I can’t believe we haven’t made it to Saint Chapelle yet, but hopefully we’ll have some sunshine when we go to really get the full effect of the windows.
materfamilias – Jardin des Plantes and Musée Branly are also on the list. As is some serious sidewalk cafe loitering.
metscan – I love the anticipation! I may indeed try the leggings.
Bonjour Madame – I look forward sharing the fun with you all.
cg – yes, the photo is from Luxembourg Gardens, one of my favorite spots in Paris. Oh, how I wish we could stay for an entire month!
sallymandy – oh yes, I am really looking forward to that one and wish I could send everyone some chocolate tastes through the inter-tubes!
LBR – I’d like to try to do brunch before, will e-mail you.
Belle – I am a Breughels fanatic, am very much looking forward to this exhibit. Hope we have some crisp fall weather.
Couture Allure – I’m hoping that they’ll allow photography of those windows. If so, I’ll definitely post!
I love Miss Janey’s comment! I second that notion and I hope your trip is absolutely heavenly.xoxo
p.s. Brunch before or after you go? Let me know.
I’m so looking forward to a future post about the Chagall stained glass. The one in the Chicago Art Institute is wonderful.
Oh, what a lovely itinerary. Please tell us all about it–especially the Chagall stained glass and the SALON DU CHOCOLAT!!
xo
I love that photo. It captures Paris in the fall perfectly.
oh that sounds wonderufl! There may be a wee bit of envy on my side… but I wish you the best of time and of course, great fall weather with lots of golden sun!
We are trying to figure out whether we might manage a little road trip through some parts of France next summer, with a final (but only two days long) stop in Paris.
I’d be so excited if that could work out!
All I can say is “Ahhhh, Paris”. Have a great time.
Ummmm, I’ll be in Paris when you are. But then you already know that.
Don’t you just love anticipating wonderful experiences?
Oh Lord, je suis jaloux. (I think that’s right!) I would love to be in Paris again. Late September – early October is the best time to go, with all the fabulous fashions. Have a truly WONDERFUL time!
Jaloux for a man, jalouse for a woman. In Romance languages, every person, animal, plant, concept and object has a gender.
Not always logical. Beards are feminine, breasts are masculine (though the bosom “poitrine” is feminine).
site for the new tram line beginning to wind around the edges of Paris: http://www.tramway.paris.fr/ (there are already two lines connecting suburbs).
Architectural walks in all Paris arrondissements: http://www.paris.fr/portail/Urbanisme/Portal.lut?page_id=101&document_type_id=4&document_id=13164&portlet_id=14633
I made you a tinyurl link in case that long link doesn’t work: http://tinyurl.com/pariswalks
This is all in French. There is a lot of info on the Paris City site in English and in Spanish, but the entire site is available in French only.
There are walks in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th very close to where you are staying.
I love this stuff; think you enjoy it as well.