Color Combining That Actually Works: A Simple Guide with the Tibi Wheel and Your Seasonal Palette

Have you ever put on an outfit that should work (right colors, right styles) yet something still feels a little off? More often than not, it’s less about the individual pieces, but the overall vibe. And that vibe is often influenced by how colors are combined and how much contrast they create. A few of you have asked how the Tibi color wheel can be used alongside a seasonal palette, so I thought it might be helpful to walk through the concept visually. I’ve put together a series of images to show how it can work in real outfits.

The Tibi Color Wheel: A Quick Overview

This color wheel was developed by Amy Smilovic, Founder and Creative Director of the brand Tibi. (Even if Tibi styles aren’t your thing, I do think many of her styling concepts can be incorporated into just about any wardrobe.) Here’s the color wheel:

Tibi color wheel: useful for combining colors.

You’ll see both warm and cool colors in most of the rings. (Not all of the colors in your seasonal palette will be reflected here, but it gives a general idea.)

  • Ring 1 is black.
  • Ring 2 are the other true neutrals: white, navy, grey, beige, brown, olive, charcoal.
  • Ring 3 are what are sometimes called the “-ish colors,” which can play either as neutrals or a colors, depending on what they’re paired with.
  • Ring 4 are the brights and pastels.

How the Rings Work (and Why Contrast Matters)

Amy can get pretty deep in the weeds on this stuff, but the basic premise is that when combining colors, the further apart the rings, the more energy, vibrance, and drama in the overall look. And the closer together the rings, the more calming the effect. So black (Ring 1) paired with red (Ring 4) will be a more bold and dramatic combination than, say soft blue (Ring 3, think faded denim) and red (Ring 4).

Warm Palette Examples: Spring & Autumn Color Combinations

Here’s an illustration in warm tones (Spring & Autumn palettes):

Ring 2 + Ring 4: High Contrast and Energy

Susan B. wears an orange sweater with dark brown trousers and brown studded flats.
SWEATER (SIMILAR) | BELT | TROUSERS | SHOES
My sizes: Sweater – Small, Trousers – Petite Medium

Above, the bright red-orange sweater is from Ring 4, and the dark brown trousers and shoes are Ring 2. (Both of these colors are in Spring and Autumn palettes.) The high contrast combination creates a bold and dramatic energy. (I’d opt for something like this if I were giving a presentation, or otherwise wanted to stand out.)

Ring 3 + Ring 4: Softening the Look

Susan B wears an orange sweater with taupe pleated trousers and leopard print shoes.
SWEATER (SIMILAR) | BELT | TROUSERS (c/o) | SHOES
My sizes: Sweater – Small, Trousers – 8

To calm it down a notch, I swapped out the Ring 2 trousers for these Ring 3 taupe trousers (a light version of Donkey from the Spring palette). The overall look is a little softer and calmer, even though the sweater is still quite bright. Autumns, a soft olive or khaki would also work for you.

Here I’ve removed the backgrounds so you can see the outfits side by side.

Contrast level comparisons: Susan B. wears two outfits with an orange sweater, dark trousers on the left, lighter trousers on the right.

Why Adjacent Color Changes Everything

Also at play here is the effect of adjacent color that is the backbone of Personal Color Analysis: colors will look different depending on the color they are adjacent to. (You might notice that the sweater itself looks more vivid when paired with the more contrasting dark trousers.)

Johannes Itten color squares illustrating how colors can look different depending on the adjacent/surrounding color.

This concept was developed by artist and color theorist Johannes Itten from the Bauhaus School of the early 20th Century. Each of the blue squares in this illustration is the same color blue, but looks different depending on the surrounding color. (Your face/skin is a color too, and you want to surround it with the colors that make you look your best.)

Cool Palette Examples: Winter & Summer Color Combinations

Let’s look at a similar comparison using colors from cool seasonal palettes (Winter & Summer).

Ring 1, 2 + Ring 4: Bold, High-Contrast Looks

Here I’ve styled a bright Raspberry sweater (Ring 4: Winter and Summer palettes) with dark navy trousers (Ring 2), black (Ring 1) and silver accessories (Ring 2) for a bold, high-contrast look.

Style note: high contrast looks like this one are usually best on a Winter palette. Winters also do well in bright, color-blocked looks.

Ring 3 + Ring 4: Lower Contrast, Softer Impact

Above, I’ve calmed down and softened the look by swapping out the Ring 1 & 2 pieces with blue-grey trousers and bag from Ring 3. And the softer pink accessories also take the boldness down a notch. (While the first combo would overwhelm a Summer, the softer Ring 3 pairings here can work with their lower contrast levels.)

How to Use the Tibi Color Wheel in Real Life

Here’s how to apply this in practice: if your outfit feels flat and a little “blah,” try upping the contrast level between rings, or adding one of your colors from Ring 4. If your outfit feels like “too much,” use your Ring 3 colors to dial it down. And this premise works even if you tend to wear mostly neutrals.

When it comes to color, there’s no single “right” way to combine your palette. Even though all the colors in your season technically work together, contrast level, mood, and personal preference play a big role in how an outfit feels. I encourage my color clients to experiment with different combinations and notice what feels most like them. And since this is one of those concepts that’s easier to revisit over time, you may want to save or bookmark this post to come back to when getting dressed, packing, or shopping. I hope it gives you a few new ideas to play with.

Susan B. sits on a wooden bench wearing a brown knit jacket, blue jeans and colorful bracelets.

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46 Comments

  1. Hi Susan,
    That is an interesting spin, for sure. I love all your color posts. In the past few years, I feel that I’ve come a long way with color and accessories, but clearly, there is always more to be explored!
    You look fabulous in the photos, the trousers look great, and I love the look of the studded brown shoes in the first photo. Are they all-day comfortable?
    I’ve been watching a French girl Youtube Channel, AliceinParis for fun, and recently watched a very good – what 3 Parisian women have in their handbags video. They are all so put together.
    I still feel a bit like my routine is “grab something clean” and I’m not that intentional, but it’s a journey. Eliminating black and gray and having a firmer focus on warm/soft autumn colors has been a productive focus for me.

    1. Hi Karen, thanks! While I haven’t worn these shoes for all-day walking, they are quite comfortable and I’ve worn them for extended periods running errands and walking the dog.

      1. Hi Susan! How are the Bared Leopard Heels? Comfortable and supportive? Did you order them on line? They are really beautiful.
        Julie

        1. Hi Julie, thanks! Yes, they are quite comfortable, and even come with an optional gel insole pad for the ball of the foot.

  2. Hi! The taupe Italian wool trousers you are modeling above…is that the color Dashi? Hard to tell is they are the same or if the color you purchased has sold out. Please advise…

    Thanks!

      1. Very vivid illustration of the color concept. Now, could a summer wear her appropriate red with brown pants, too? The pants wouldn’t be close to face, of course. I’d like to see that combination for a summer.

        1. Hi Rory, Summer browns are slightly softer and lighter than my dark brown pants, think cocoa and Rose Brown (slightly pinky undertone). But yes, in your palette the Summer browns and reds can certainly be worn together.

  3. As an artist I work with color, value and contrast so this approach to putting together an outfit makes a lot of sense. I have bookmarked this post. Thanks for suggesting that.

  4. Oh how my nerdy self loves stuff like this! I was pretty excited to open the post and see a fuchsia and black combo! Felt like home! (Though that pink is a bit bright for my dark winter self, I would still wear it.) I agree that contrast is an important part of color analysis, and as a visual learner your post makes it easy to understand how to coordinate your outfit’s contrast with your own-if you want to. I just love that tomato red on you!

  5. So interesting! Can you pick a color from , say, ring one and pair it with any color from, say ring 4? Not too sure. I thought the color had to be next to a certain or across from it. Please help!

    Marilyn

    1. Hi Marilyn, yes you can pair any of your seasonal palette colors from ring 4 with any of your colors from rings 1,2, & 3.

  6. This is very interesting. I do like how you show how just a small change can make a big difference. I really noticed it on the Winter/ Summer examples. I am a summer and would wear that outfit.

  7. This is wonderful! In my corporate life, with more formal work outfits, I often paired a warm/hot pink jacket with black skirt or pants. I retired in 2017 and a few years ago I realized I hardly ever wore that combination anymore. I thought it was because my coloring had faded…….but now I realize I am more comfortable with a lower contrast.

    Having warm coloring, I have no grey clothing, but this has made me think I should look for a pair of grey pants.

  8. Thank you so much, Susan! This was informative, helpful, and fun. I really appreciate your color posts–I always learn something. Thanks again!

  9. Wow- this is fascinating…and I’ve never seen it quite described like this. Now I understand why I lean towards the things I do! Ah ha!!

  10. Useful information. I will consider this as I put together outfits. Many of the colors I wear are soft and I would like to wear brighter colors. I think this would help me from going overboard.

  11. Great post, Sue. Learning to work colors has made all the difference in my comfort with shopping. Thank you so much, I loved my session with you.

  12. Thanks for this post. Very interesting and useful. It seems that the focus on contrast would also apply to a person’s natural contrast. I guess the Winter/Spring etc. categorization relates to that. I worked with a color analyst/stylist a long time ago who used a categorization of warm/cool and high/low contrast. So while many of us in the class wanted to wear the black/white/red combo that was very popular at the time, she told us that some of us who had the cool coloring were too low contrast to wear such a high contrast combo. (BTW, although I love the hot pink/black/white combo, it gave me a Good &Plenty vibe (which I also love), but maybe that’s just for some of a certain generation.)

  13. There are few things more exciting than seeing the world around one in a new way. I’ve always loved color but have never seriously studied it. Thank you for providing us with a clearly explained framework with which to view it and examples of how to work with it. You are a gifted teacher, Susan!

  14. Thank you Susan, that was a great read! I have been gradually more drawn to softer looks and adding muted colours to bold. It also makes my outfits seem more interesting to me. Appreciate all your posts which are thoughtfully and helpfully written.

  15. This was a short, concise, extremely helpful post. Once again-very, very helpful! The examples are very nice.

  16. Oh I needed this explanation. I once bought a colour wheel and after a while threw it out again as I didn’t understand how it worked. Your explanation might give me more insight. I am rather thick when it comes to learning these things, but my hopes are high.
    Greetje

  17. Thank you for this lovely post, Susan! Knowing one’s colours gives so much energy and elegance to one’s day. As a business college teacher I am in front of and with students a lot and I always feel best when knowing the colours are right! Have a lovely day!