Is “quiet luxury” this year’s “coastal grandmother?”
“Quiet luxury” is the un-trend that’s poised to be one of the biggest style directions of 2023. Like last year’s Coastal Grandmother trend, it’s an understated look that leans toward quality basics in timeless styles. While CG was predominantly casual, this look leans a bit more sophisticated, and can range from casual to corporate to cocktail dressy.
If you peruse fashion publications or the style section of your newspaper, you may have seen an article or three about quiet luxury in recent weeks. Also described as the “stealth wealth” look, in concept it often centers on if-you-know-you-know pieces from high-end designers. The status signaling is delivered via quality fabrics and details rather than logos. Some have described it as “minimalism for the very rich.”
Styles from designers like Bruno Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Max Mara, Khaite, and The Row are often referenced as examples of this aesthetic. But I think the look stands on its even absent the status-signaling aspect. And you don’t have to be part of the (private) jet set to enjoy the perks of this un-trendy trend. Keep reading for some examples at the end of this post…
I don’t even think “trend” is necessarily the right word for this fashion direction. Like Preppy or Bohemian, I think it’s more of a style genre that may be “having a moment” but isn’t going to vanish in a year or five. But as with most fashion moments, the look is already filtering down from the high end, and you’ll have more options available. (And if it finally breaks the dam of ruffles and twee that’s been clogging up the fashion stream for the last few years… well hoo-freakin-ray!)
Why now?
Economic uncertainty is often mentioned as a driver when fashion takes a turn toward the classic or understated. That’s probably part of it. But I think this direction, like last year’s Coastal Grandmother trend, evokes a kind of simplicity and calm that appeals to many of us.
The world is a noisy and complicated place, and that includes visually. We’ve been bombarded the last few years with logos and prints and outsized design details (as well as the attention-seeking celebrities who wear them). While a boardwalk carnival is fun and energizing, after a while it’s natural to want to leave the midway behind and take a quiet walk on the beach to regroup.
A broader awareness of the destructive environmental impact of fashion is also a factor. Sustainability is factoring into our buying decisions. We’re looking for clothing that lasts, and building our wardrobes around “fewer but better” pieces.
And I think the pandemic years have changed our relationship with clothes. Many of us began prioritizing comfort and ease during that time and aren’t willing to go back.
What I like about the quiet luxury trend (as translated for the rest of us…)
While I realize that this aesthetic won’t appeal to everyone, I’ve been leaning into my own version of it. Here are a few reasons why…
It’s simple and wearable. Like last year’s Coastal Grandmother look, it’s based on simple, functional clothes that can be worn multiple ways and in multiple combinations. Neutral basics are key, whether your style is tailored or more relaxed. While the look is often coordinated, it’s not fussy or constrained.
“Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it’s not luxury.”
–Coco Chanel
Greater longevity & sustainability. Simple and timeless styles with fewer of-the-moment details will have a longer lifespan in our wardrobes. That doesn’t mean everything has to be plain or generic, but be sparing with details that will “date stamp” a garment.
It’s versatile and adaptable. Understated, neutral pieces are easier to dress up or down, and you can use accessories to add personal touches or shift the formality of an outfit.
How to adapt the quiet luxury trend for your budget
As I noted above, this look or genre lends itself well to the concept of “fewer, but better” pieces in your wardrobe. I’ll always encourage you to buy the best quality you can afford. But I get that most of us don’t have high-end designer budgets. (And buying “designer” isn’t always a guarantee of the best quality…you’re also paying for marketing and prestige.)
You’ll want to pay attention to and be discriminating about fabrics. While so many pieces are blends these days, I’d advise going with natural fibers (or a higher percentage of them) as much as possible. Avoid anything that looks of feels “dishraggy.” (I know that fabric quality across the board has taken a hit in recent years. But all we can do is demand better from brands by not purchasing crap fabrics.)
There’s no single silhouette you need to adhere to. You can go more relaxed or tailored, fitted or oversized, depending on your preferences. Overall though, I think this look works best with a certain restraint and neatness. Think “casual elegance.”
And fit is key. Sometimes a small tweak (nipping in a waist, adjusting hem length, adding or removing shoulder pads, narrowing a sleeve) can make all the difference. If you’re not able to do alterations yourself, find a good tailor and ask them what they suggest.
I’ve focused here on casual to smart casual styles. But many of the brands shown also have dressier or more corporate options if you are looking for those.
Styles & inspiration…
Banana Republic seems to have understood the assignment. I think they’ve really stepped up their game in the last couple of years. If you’re looking for unfussy, classically elegant, wearable clothes, they’re worth a look. They also offer a wide range of styles in Petite and Tall sizes. (No Plus range, but Misses XL corresponds to 16-18, and some styles are offered in size 20.)
Many of you have been asking for trousers that are full-length. These straight-leg wool trousers are lightweight enough for warm weather wear, and available in 3 neutrals. Available in Misses (33″ inseam), Petite (31″ inseam) and Tall (36″ inseam).
This silk shirt has a straight hem, so you can wear tucked or untucked. Also in black, in Regular, Tall & Petite sizes.
A classic striped shirtdress, but that little contrast stripe gusset at the shoulder is a nice detail. Swap out the self-belt for one in canvas, raffia or leather to take it up a notch. In Misses, Petite & Tall sizes.
Wear it with…
This equestrian-inspired linen-cotton blend jacket has some interesting seaming details, and a timeless look. In Regular, Petite & Tall sizes.
I purchased these slim utility pants last year, and have worn them often, especially during warmer months. They’re a good denim alternative when you want something more polished than jeans but not as classic as a trouser. They’re available in a few neutral colors, in Regular, Tall & Petite sizes.
The Reset is another brand that I think really nails a casual version of the quiet luxury vibe, but without eye-searing prices. I have these trousers on order to try. Will report back. They’re a linen-cotton-Tencel blend, available in 4 colors, sizes XS-XL.
The details on this merino wool sweater (directional stitching, shoulder pleats) make it look like a much more expensive piece. It’s available in several colors, sizes XS-XL. (I find many tops from this brand run large, so suggest sizing down.)
If you like a bit of Scandi in your style, COS has some good pieces at the moment. This silk-blend jacquard shirt reminds me of the Bruno Cucinelli one in the “mood board” at the top of the post (upper right hand image). Also available in Navy, sizes 2-14.
At the intersection of cozy and elegant, this silk-cotton cardigan is one of those pieces that’s much better in person than in the online image. Also available in black, in sizes XXS-3X.
Many of you have recommended Quince linen pieces for their affordable quality. This blazer is available in four colors, sizes XS-XL. Hint: don’t worry too much about the wrinkles. Quiet luxury isn’t about looking pristine, and it’s OK for your clothing to look lived in.
For strolling through the San Tropez market, wear with an oversized shirt or pair with the blazer for a coordinated look. 3 colors, sizes XS-XL. And if you prefer no drawstring, try these.
This 100% cotton crochet knit jacket is a lightweight and casually elegant topper that can work with dresses or jeans, or anything in between. It’s available in 4 colors, sizes XS-XL.
Accessories that make the look…
I love the look of woven leather, which adds texture and interest without logos or fussy design details. This one is a fraction of the price of the high-end designer version. (Also available in brown.)
If you prefer a non-leather bag, this one is made from handwoven neoprene and comes with a matching pouch. Several colors available.
I love my raffia shoes in warmer seasons (raffia looks great with linen!), and appreciate the understated look of this pair.
I purchased these sandals last year, and think they really “punch above their weight” appearance-wise. They’re also quite comfortable and easy to walk in.
A leather upper and knot detail add an elegant touch to these espadrilles. Also available in black and red.
And of course, shopping vintage and second-hand is another way to get the look for less. Check out sites like Eileen Fisher Renew, thredUp, The Real Real, or Fashionphile to find quality pieces.
What do you think of the quiet luxury look? Is it something you’d wear?
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Your post today is such a thoughtful piece. Last night a neighbor and I were having just this conversation. While my clothes are not luxurious they do lean towards quiet. The intention of buying timeless, not necessarily expensive pieces just makes since. For me, I like to dress in a way that if you were to see a picture of me today it will look relevant in 10 years. Most fashion icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Caroline Bessette Kennedy, and Katherine Hepburn have a timelessnesses about their clothes. Which makes them relatable today.
Question: How are you liking the lined silk Quince cami/tanks?
Hi Jeanne, I haven’t been able to wear them much as it’s just been too chilly here.
It is a style for me. A more classic style. I am surprised they don’t mention Victoria Beckham as a brand. I love her clothes and most of Max Mara’s clothes but for me this classy style is too limited. They never use colour and there is no quirkiness. And I love both although I always sigh and drool over Victoria’s clothes.
Greetje
That’s where accessories can come in to add your own touch and color.
This year, Banana Republic has been my go to for classic, well made clothing. The items I have purchased are all black, white, cream and gray pieces. Perfect for a capsule wardrobe. My husband and I recently attended a wedding in LA and I wore a simple, loose fitting black print sheath from BR and received lots of compliments. It was understated and very comfortable.
If women, and men too, are looking for “quiet, luxury trend” items without breaking the bank, BR is a great start.
This was so informative! I haven’t been following any trends lately- I’m way too short (4’11”) for all the big pattern. I loved the grandma look last year. I just shortened legs and sleeves and sized down. This year may be harder. I wish Quince made petite sizes!
What a helpful article! I’ve been struggling to put together outfits that fulfill my three word style aesthetic. Understated, Casual, and Elegant. I love that you mentioned Banana Republic. I love their look and their petite sizes fit me well. I look forward to seeing your personal take on this Quiet Luxury look.
Thank you.
This is a very worthwhile post with excellent suggestions. Most of these clothes would not get worn often in my very casual, outdoor lifestyle. I appreciate the concept and the suggested pieces, however.
I appreciate this post, Susan; it’s very inspiring. I wish more shirts and blouses were available with straight hems, which are more polished and versatile. Maybe you’ll inspire some clothing manufacturers!
I really enjoyed this post! This has been my exact thought process of late. I’ve been overhauling my wardrobe, trying to make it more high-quality, hard-working, and smaller. It’s interesting that I’m not alone in this. Thank you!
Hi Susan – I really appreciated this post. Timeless elegance and simplicity is the way I like to dress. I am SOOOO tired of flashy brand logos on clothes and especially accessories. I am excited to hear your feedback on The Reset pants you ordered, they are very pretty. Regarding the Quince linen pants, have you ordered them before? If so, what size did you go with? I’ve have one of their cashmere t-shirts and I went up in size for that so I wondered if I should do the same with the pants?
Hi Katie, thanks! I have not ordered the Quince pants, but perhaps some of my readers who have can give you some direction about sizing.
Love this post! I’m a big fan of Quince. I really love their silk, linen, and ultra-stretch. I do appreciate that Eileen Fisher has more color this season and hope to see more of it everywhere. A good tailor for alterations is a must.
Here’s to …..”breaking the dam of ruffles and twee that have been clogging the fashion stream.”
AMEN to that sister !!!
Enough already; it makes me not even want to walk into a store
Aside from the style, with which of course I agree, this post is just so well written! Thank you!
Thanks so much, Lisa!
Another website to check out for classic options at reasonable prices is the British company Saint + Sofia (saintandsofia.com). Their pants come with a choice of inseam length and as someone 5’9” that has been so helpful (the shortest inseam seems to be 28 inches). The pants are super-comfortable and wear well. They also carry some prints, but have many neutral color options in tops and jackets.
Surprised you haven’t mentioned the influence of “Succession” although you’ve included a photo of Sarah Snook/Shiv Roy up top. And we can’t ignore the racial/class aspect, much like the adjacent “clean girl aesthetic.”
Yes, there’s absolutely a lot to unpack, and I’m open to having these conversations. I’m not really familiar with the “clean girl aesthetic,” will look into that.
I think of summer as the time for ruffles, tiers and relaxed fits. Cotton items and the casual nature of the season allow for a bit of fun and frill, pattern and of course color. I can’t see spending a lot of money on lightweight summer items that invariably get stained with sunscreen. The season is short, with intense heat.
Fall and winter are the serious seasons where wool and darker colors take over. Cleaner, simpler lines are necessary to allow for layering under heavier outerwear. Winter is dictated by the depth and austerity of the cold. Winter is long, so items must last.
For these reasons, my summer clothing and winter clothing look like two different people made the purchases.
I’m with Marie on this. We retired to SE Idaho and a nice linen slub top from Costco, dark wash or white jeans, and metallic copper Birkenstocks make up my classy summer wardrobe. We’re so casual and love to be outside.
I am a warm spring and I can’t get comfortable with most creams and whites, I would like to. I’m going to try harder.
This has always been my esthetic and my hands down favorite brand is Vince. They use the very best fabrics, timeless cuts and beautiful colors. If you buy retail they are pricey, but Vince is readily available at outlets, discount shops like Nordstrom Rack and Marshalls, and consignment stores. I find that my Vince pieces are the ones I reach for year after year
I love Vince too, but notice they’re using more polyester which I try to avoid. I did just order a cotton blend top from them, will report back.
I am with Marie on this one. Casual outdoors style with sturdy but good looking clothes. Something I can wear my hiking boots with. Maybe English Country lady? A post on classic outdoors wear would be appreciated. A hike and then lunch at a wine country restaurant with a quick change of shoes or top?
Thank you for all you do. So many different lifestyles to address.
For me, the quiet luxury look is just perfect. I absolutely would wear it, and in fact, many of my choices are based on this look. Thanks for the very thoughtful and informative post!
There is so much to unpack in today’s post that I am going to have to read it a couple of times. I am really enjoying this new trend or “un trend” of quiet luxury. I too am so sick of ruffles, over puffed sleeves, poor fabrics and workmanship. I agree that Banana Republic has upped their quality that they are a good choice when looking for for quality pieces to add to your wardrobe. After seeing those BR utility pants on you last year I went to BR to try them on and was delighted at their quality and fit. They are perfect and so versatile for the retired lifestyle. They were just as you described.
I enjoy your blog immensely. It is very well written and you offer so many ideas that I can use. I have also enjoyed your colour analysis journey. It has been so interesting to see how the use of colour can impact one’s personal style and wardrobe selection. I have booked myself in with Red Leopard when I am on vacation in London this September. I am looking forward to knowing what colours are my best!
Thanks so much, Ms. Liz! I’m so excited to hear you’ll be visiting Red Leopard and know you’ll have a wonderful experience!
Thank you for this and the links. I also look for care instructions and avoid items requiring dry cleaning.
Super interesting post. I plan to re-read it and think.
I love BR the store, but BR the website drives me insane. They need to hire a decent web designer!
To me , minimalism is more of a philosophy then a trend. It is an approach to life encompassing ones over all life. I’m happy that we will be able to see more items that relate to our likes and tastes.
Banana Republic has upped its style. I remember liking this store many years ago, then they changed and were like every other store. They are back,!
Excellent post with helpful information and inspiring photos. I have always loved the classic, understated style with the finer fabrics and what I chose during my career when living in Chicago and San Francisco. I am retired now and living in a Rocky Mountain smaller town, so I am striving to adapt the smart casual, untrendy look to the more outdoorsy, casual lifestyle. Like a couple of others posted, it would be wonderful to see your ideas and inspiration on specific pieces for those of us with that need who live in or travel in those type areas.
This is my second comment. I like the style “quiet luxury”, but the title it’s given bothers me. Secondly, I think I’m going against the grain with BR. So many classics I loved they no longer make. They had the best silk cashmere sweaters, T-shirts and linen T-shirts which I bought multiples of. Now everything is dropped shouldered, cropped, oversized and boxy. Sometimes I can find things in their factory store.
I came here to say this! I can’t help wondering what I’m missing at BR. I find their fits bizarrely inconsistent, their “natural” fabrics stiff and scratchy, and their style choices baffling. (Suede shorts? Blouses with huge balloon sleeves?) You’d think, given the brand’s recent emphasis on “heritage,” that they’d have at least one pair of superb khaki trousers for women. Alas, no.
By the way, I have followed BR for a long time. I was the company’s editorial director back in the catalog era, and I used to find quite a lot to like in the stores. Not anymore.
I’ll end on a positive note by seconding the love for the Vince brand, which ticks all the boxes for me: fit, fabric, finish, sophisticated yet relaxed style. I am not averse to synthetics, and I find their polyester to be of excellent quality.
Such a thoughtful post! The aesthetic is elitist, but many of us can benefit from a pared down look. As you mentioned, I feel strongly that better quality and fewer purchases is far better for the planet and our children. I am one of the retired to the country women, so a utility jacket rather than a tailored blazer is more my speed. LL Bean is a go-to. BTW, would you have the actual link or item number for the cotton crochet knit sweater jacket you showed?
Good post. I sew my wardrobe and the high end designers you mentioned are the ones I knock off. Love them but they are certainly well beyond my budget, but I can afford good fabric for knocking many of them. Summer is easier since lots of high quality linen yardage is readily available.